QUICK CURE 5 Minute Epoxy (9oz)

QUIK-CURE 5 min. epoxy cures to a slightly flexible consistency. This lack of brittleness allows it to form a lasting bond in areas subjected to high vibration or stress. QUIK-CURE shouldn't be used in areas that are subject to long-term immersion in water; however, it works fine for the internal structure of wood framed boats. QUIKCURE is our only epoxy on which you can apply polyester resins. It can be mixed with microballoons to form a quick setting putty. Items bonded with QUIK-CURE can be handled after 15 minutes. Full strength is reached in 1 hour.

Hobbylinc QUICK CURE 5 Minute Epoxy (9oz) Hobby Epoxy #202
 (27)
 Hobbylinc # hlc202
$17.89
 
Retail $22.99  SAVE 22% !
Hobbylinc Item # hlc202
Features :

QUICK CURE 5 Minute Epoxy

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Spotlight Review

 
"Great for the details that need to be just right."
e.coxe
I use this product in model car building when the placement of important detail pieces must be just right. The bond time allows you to adjust the part until it is right where it needs to be. Also handy for many household repairs!

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Features

QUICK CURE 5 Minute Epoxy


Specs

  • Hobbylinc Product Number: 202

Includes

9oz bottle


Requirements & Suggestions

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Product Rank

#3 in Epoxy
#35 in Glues

Reviews

  
 
"Fast Set"
andrew359
I use this for field repairs when CA won't cut it. Also for building on components where you need to keep them aligned but can't really put them in a jig or keep them clamped together (foam wings). otherwise I tend to use the 30 minute for most of my building. Mostly use this on RC airplanes. its got its place, and if you build you will find this is a good one to have.

 
"Quick epoxy"
tulowstar45
I use this epoxyl on my big rockets, and fillets on the fins on smaller rockets

 
"Useful for a vast multitude of things"
skydog (Arizona)
I've used this for so many things... It's good for installing clear parts because it doesn't shrink like white glue, doesn't craze like super glue, and doesn't dissolve plastic like model cement. It also works well for simulating water or other liquid in small quantities (like buckets). It makes a good gap filler in places where you can't sand (like next to important detail) because it flows out and sets with a smooth, non-shrinking finish. It can be easily smoothed with a finger or tool dipped in rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol will also clean it off without damage to the plastic, if it hasn't set yet. Does not sand well, so not recommended as a general purpose filler. It's great for model rocket fin fillets as long as you don't let it run all over. It's not the strongest adhesive out there-If you're building a high or mid-power rocket, use 30 minute epoxy for structural joints.

Information

If CAs are the cure-all for just about all bonding problems, you may be wondering, "Why do I need epoxy?" One primary reason is price. Epoxy costs are about one fourth that of CA. When large objects are being bonded, economics can be a deciding factor on choice of adhesive. The specific characteristics of epoxies also give them advantages in some applications. All our epoxies are mixed with a 50-50 ratio. Any scrap material or paper scratch pad can be used as a mixing surface. We have found, however, that the plastic tops to coffee cans work best due to their outer border and their flexibility, which allows the unused cured epoxy to be released and thrown away.

Squeeze out equal length beads of the desired amount of epoxy, then mix together thoroughly with a popsicle stick or scrap piece of material. In cold weather, epoxy takes longer to cure (too cold and usually they never fully cure) and becomes more difficult to get out of the bottle, especially if it's less than 1/2 full. The epoxies can be heated in a microwave oven for about 10 seconds so that they flow easier. The heating process, with the caps off, also releases any moisture that can be absorbed by epoxies. Their shelf life, therefore, is virtually unlimited.

Acetone works as the best solvent for cleaning epoxy from brushes and unwanted surfaces before it cures. If epoxy gets on surfaces that acetone will attack, use isopropyl alcohol. We do not recommend any additives for thinning epoxies due to their effect on curing and overall strength. If thin epoxy is required, either use heat or switch to EX-SLOW or FINISH-CURE. Epoxies bond best to clean, textured surfaces. Smooth, non-porous surfaces should be roughened with coarse sandpaper to improve adhesion.

A small amount of CA can be used in strategic locations to hold parts in place while the epoxies cure. The minute designations for epoxies refer to the working time, i.e., the time one has before the epoxies begin to set up after being mixed in a large mass. When spread into thinner layers, the working time in increased significantly (except QUIK-CURE). Working time decreases approximately 25% at temperatures above 90 degrees F. Don't panic if your skin comes in contact with either epoxy or CA.

While contact should be avoided, uncured epoxy can be washed from your skin with soap and water. Allergic reactions are rare. Cured epoxy and CA can be peeled off the skin and usually are gone after a full day of normal activity. UN-CURE will debond any body parts that get stuck together if a peeling action (never pulling) doesn't part them.

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