Mega Der Red Max Model Rocket Kit

This is the Mega Der Red Max Rocket Kit from the Pro Series II by Estes. _ Suitable for Ages 18 & Up. Skill Level: Pro Series Rocket Kit.

Estes Mega Der Red Max Model Rocket Kit Pro Series II E2X #9705
 Estes Rockets # est9705
$51.91
DISCONTINUED
 
Retail $69.98  SAVE 26% !
Estes Rockets Item # est9705
Features :
  • Flies up to 500 feet (152m).
  • 30" nylon parachute recovery.
  • Laser cut plywood fins.
  • Wood laminating sheets.
  • Through the wall fin mounting (with wood being laminated ove plywood for superior strength).
  • Mega-sized replica of Der Red Max waterslide decals.
  • One year warranty.
  • Detailed illustrated assembly and launching instructions.
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Discontinued - No longer available for purchase
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Spotlight Review

 
"Okay, now where's the PSII Goblin?"
wallyum (Ft. Thomas, KY)
Estes did a wonderful job of reading minds with the Mega Red Max. Deep into my Max addiction, there was no way I could not own this rocket, even though it was fairly pricey compared to my usual rocket purchases. I sidestepped that issue by asking for it as a Christmas gift, and after the holiday madness, started construction in earnest. It wasn't my first mid-power kit, and I had previously built a PSII Ventris, but the big Max was a whole different ballgame. Butt-gluing the big sections of balsa wasn't terrible. I used waxed paper and just enough wood glue to bond the two pieces, then set them under a stack of heavy books for a week. A WEEK. Tough on the patience, but worked like a charm. For my second trick I cut the six fin covers out of the butt-glued balsa, then one by one attached the skins to the skeletal fin frames. This required using epoxy, and taught me a couple of things. 1) Don't be sloppy with the epoxy. 2) Keep any epoxy from leaking out onto the fin tabs. 3) Make sure things don't move once you have them in place and have them under the heavy stack of books. 4) Epoxy is slippery until it sets up. I left the fins under the books overnight, and by morning some shifting had occurred, but it wasn't fatal. I was lucky. Construction from this point is like any other mid-power kit, as is filleting, filling, priming, sanding, and painting. The next trouble area came in the guise of decal application. The decals look great, but they grab quickly and can be fragile. I sprayed mine with a couple of coats of Testors Decal Bonder for extra strength. The big wrap decal came apart on me, and it was only through a life of puzzle construction that I got things back in place to the point that you can't tell from ten feet out. My advice would be to let the decals soak to the point that they're almost ready to float free on their own. The standard drop of dishwashing liquid in the water didn't hurt either. Another thing that helped was buying a shallow Tupperware container big enough to fit the decals. Mine has now been pressed into service as a backup range box.

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Features

  • Flies up to 500 feet (152m).
  • 30" nylon parachute recovery.
  • Laser cut plywood fins.
  • Wood laminating sheets.
  • Through the wall fin mounting (with wood being laminated ove plywood for superior strength).
  • Mega-sized replica of Der Red Max waterslide decals.
  • One year warranty.
  • Detailed illustrated assembly and launching instructions.

Specs

  • Skill level: Pro Series
  • Length: 40" (101.6cm)
  • Diameter: 4" (10.2cm)
  • Weight: 31oz. (878.9g)
  • Recovery: 30" nylon parachute
  • Altitude: 500ft (152m)

Includes

One model rocket


Requirements & Suggestions

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Reviews

  
 
"I fly mine on H's and I's"
EeebeeE (Penfield, NY)
This is a great rocket. Lightweight so it can handle stronger impulse motors, but because of its girth it has very majestic flights... However you need to do some things to make it a better performer. 1. Double the length of the elastic cord. HPR motors have significantly stronger ejection charges. For this rocket I prefer the elastic because the CRs are relatively thin. Using Kevlar or Nylon, regardless of length, creates a risk of breaking the forward CR. You can find strong enough elastic at JoAnn Fabric. Make it twice as long and you are good to go. 2. DO NOT USE WATER-BASED GLUE TO LAMINATE THE FINS. Water causes wood to warp. Therefore, so does water-based glue. Water-based glue also needs air to dry, but when you compress the fins under weight you also slow the drying process waaaaaaaay down. Instead, use a 15-minute to 30-minute epoxy. The longer setting epoxy doesn't need air to set. You can thin it with alcohol to make it penetrate the wood a little better and give you a stronger bond. Alcohol evaporates so quickly that it will be gone by the time you put the fins under pressure. The result is that your fins will be laminated in far less time, and the will not be warped. 3. Consider cutting off the cap of the nosecone shoulder and installing a bulkhead. That way you can house electronics in the nose cone if necessary, and you can create a better anchor point for your shock cord. 4. Use a chute swivel. Trust me, you will love me for this. 5. Apply thin CA around the forward end of the main airframe to prevent it from fraying. 6. When applying the decals, put a drop or two of dishwashing soap into a pint of water. Apply the water to the surface area the decal is to stick as well as wetting the decal. This will allow you to better slide the decal into place. This is especially important with the main decal (3 skulls) at the top of the rocket which will require considerable manipulation. For that one, I suggest a very fine pencil line be drawn on the finished product from about a half-inch aft of the forward end, extending down about four inches. This will be covered up when the decal is applied, and will help you better align the decal before you wrap it around the airframe. You will have a lot of fun with this and your friends will be very impressed.

 
"A really big, great flier!!"
marwady (Charlevoix, MI)
If you are familiar with the Der Red Max family and don't have this one, by all means, get it! I had a blast building it and it flies great. My first flight was on an Aerotech RMS G64 and it nearly went out of sight. Next will be on a F52 so I can at least see the apogee and deployment. Anyone who sees this rocket for the first time just goes WOAH!! including myself.

 
"Good, Albeit Conservative, Intro to Mid-Power"
clown2theleft
The Estes Mega Der Red Max takes a common upscale, and puts it into kit form. At first glance, it's awesome in size, and for the flier accustomed to 24mm as being a big motor, it is. Obviously designed around the low impulse G's Estes has commissioned Aerotech to make for them, it has many weight-saving attributes: light airframe and nose cone, and balsa laminate fins, which, while TTW as one would expect, have a 1/8 ply core with a small tab which interlocks with the middle centering ring. The instructions use bizarre methods which, if followed, will result in weaker fin-to-MMT attachment than necessary--leaving off the aft CR and retainer to affix internal fillets would be preferred. The butting of balsa sheets end-to-end, then cutting out as appropriate and laminating to the plywood core makes for a fat, light fin, but finishing this is a chore (as there's inevitably seams to fill), and there's a lot of scrap balsa left over. The shock cord is typical Estes: far too short, and of elastic instead of nylon or Kevlar. Shock cord attachment points are absent, save a slot in the upper centering ring, through which it appears as though they would like the elastic slid, with terminal point being epoxied to the MMT (I say appears because I added a U-bolt on both those I built without consulting the instructions). With the weight saved, however, one can make use of higher-thrust, and higher-impulse reloadable 29mm motors to good benefit to speed and altitude. Bigger G's and small to medium H's do this rocket well, and there's ample room to cram in a baby I, if you've got the recovery area for it... I'd recommend this for the flier accustomed to Mid or High power rocketry, who already owns reloadable hardware and is used to building and flying rockets using their own developed methods.

Comments

Due to small parts that could cause a choking hazard please kee away from children 3 years of age and younger.

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